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Take a Trip to the Dark Side

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blackhair

Black. Coloring your hair to the darkest of shades may seem extreme but look at all those who have recently gone platinum, the opposite extreme. Black is mysterious, filled with attitude, sexy, and takes a bold person to wear it. Click the notes for more. –– Kelly Rowe

Black is tougher to wear than platinum.

Believe it or not black is a harder hue to pull off. Black is stark and can look more unnatural than even extra light blonde against your face. Make sure you pick a black that suits your skin tone.

There is more than one black.

“Pick a black that suits. . .” “Eh, black is black,” I hear you say. No. There are many variations of black. The one you choose should be based on your skin tone. The difference between the black shades listed below occurs most prominently in natural light, when they will look softer on your face.

Neutral Black should be worn by neutral to warm skin tones.

Cool Black/Blue Black should be worn by cool to cool-neutral skin.

Warm Black/Natural Black should be worn by neutral to neutral-warm skin tones.

Black can be worn anytime of the year.

You can wear black hair anytime of the year, just have glazes applied to shift the tone depending on how your skin looks. If it’s winter go a little cooler and bluer; if you’re tan, take all the coolness out.

Avoid pastel makeup.

You will need to shift your makeup palette to something that is minimal, in bronzy shades or bold tones. Light hues will clash.

By Kelly Rowe. Kelly Rowe is a professional hair stylist in NYC and a regular contributer to Style Noted.

Color Trends: Shimmer Darkly

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When bold colors are combined with dark bases they take on a different character. A touch of silver, cobalt or ruby against a dark backdrop feels mysterious and otherworldly. These looks call to mind the wondrous landscapes of night sky. The contrast of bright and dark makes the accent shade pop, so you get maximum impact with minimum application. Learn to create this color trend in the style notes. –Laura Martin 

 

Step: Pick a dark brown with a cool undertone as your base shade. Goldwell 3VR, 5BP and 6SB are strong options that feel couture but not severe.

Step: Add accent hue to any section of the hair, but keep application minimal. For muted but still vibrant results, apply Goldwell Elumen over levels 6-8, pre-lightening if necessary with Silk Lift.

Step: Care for your new shade at home with shine luxe shampoo and conditioner. The sulphate free formula won’t fade strands. Macadamia and grape seed oils will add jewel-like shine.

 

 

Color Inspiration and Formulation: Ginger Blonde

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Lately the softer side of red has trended toward rosy hues: strawberry blonde, apricot, and rose gold. This is the warmer, earthier side of titian, a spicy copper gold redolent of cumin and turmeric. Try it on it’s own as shown in the two pictures on the right, or use it to add sunny hand painted highlights as pictured on the left. Click the style notes for the professional formula and tips on application. –Laura Martin 

Application: Lightening hair adds warmth by exposing the hair’s natural contributing pigments. Any time you are going lighter you should factor a little extra warmth into the end result. The formulas here will provide a soft ginger blonde when used to lighten 1-2 levels. Apply root formula first, then pull ends formula through remaining strands.

 

Formula: (On natural level 7)

Roots: Goldwell Topchic 1part 8KN + 1 part 8G with 20 Volume

Ends: Goldwell Topchic 1 part 8KG + 1 part 8G with 30 Volume

 

Special thanks to Laura Martin for this post. Laura is a professional hair stylist, former senior educator at ARROJO cosmetology school, and a creative non-fiction MFA student at Georgia College, Milledgeville, GA 

Color Inspiration and Formulation: Chilis and Chocolate Brown

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A color that looks its best in sunlight is a great way to celebrate the return of daylight savings time. This rich chocolatey brown has just a kiss of fiery chili red, but in the son, the spicy hues shine brightly, revealing the secret heat of this decadent hue. Click the style notes for the formula and tips on application. –Laura Martin 

 

Application: I often recommend demi-permanent formulas for dark shades, but I recommend permanent color here to maximize depth and intensity. The low volume developer won’t damage your strands, but the permanent color molecules will settle deeper into your strands for a more dimensional result. Since this is a deposit formula you can apply it in a single step, saturating from roots to ends.

 

Formula: (on natural level 6)

Goldwell Topchic 1 part 5RS + 1 part 6BK + 1 part 5B with 10 Volume

 

Special thanks to Laura Martin for this post. Laura is a professional hair stylist, former senior educator at ARROJO cosmetology school, and a creative non-fiction MFA student at Georgia College, Milledgeville, GA 

Color Inspiration and Formulation: Spicy Mustard Seed Blonde

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The warm, spicy hue of a mustard seed is a lovely, earth copper gold. It’s a sun-drenched shade, one that feels just right paired with a dusting of freckles or the first rosy glow of spring cheek color. It’s a natural looking highlight for dark blonde and light brown shades, or a beautiful single process. It’s especially flattering paired with pale blue or gray eyes, which look against the warm color. Click the style notes for the formula and tips on application. –– Laura Martin

 

Application: If using this color as a single-process, use a virgin application, starting the color 1/2” away from the scalp and pulling through to ends, then addressing the root area. This method will prevent the area at the scalp from getting too bright. If using to lighten more than 1 level, additional control tone (8NP) may be needed.

 

Formula (on natural level 7)

Goldwell Topchic 2 parts 9G + 1part 8B + 1 part 8K with 20 Volume

 

Special thanks to Laura Martin for this post. Laura is a professional hair stylist, former senior educator at ARROJO cosmetology school, and a creative non-fiction MFA student at Georgia College, Milledgeville, GA

Hair Color Inspiration and Formulation: Graphite Black

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The variations in dark hues are less obvious, but just as important for achieving a flattering result. A silvery or violet undertone has a contemporary feeling and a metallic finish. This hue is beautiful against warm brown eyes and olive skin where the icy tone provides subtle contrast. It’s a very subtle way to wear a trending hue. Click the notes for the professional formula. –– Laura Martin

Application: For maximum gloss and slightly translucent coverage that creates a luminescent surface, use a demi-permanent formula applied roots to ends on freshly washed, lightly damp hair. Saturate throughly, reapplying as necessary, especially to porous ends.

 

Formula: (On natural level 5)

Goldwell Colorance 1 part 4BP + 1 part 5BV with 2% Lotion

Special thanks to Laura Martin for this post. Laura is a professional hair stylist, former senior educator at ARROJO cosmetology school, and a creative non-fiction MFA student at Georgia College, Milledgeville, GA

Hair Color Inspiration and Formulation: Nasturtium Orange

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When it comes to color nothing provides a wider array of inspiration than flowers. My mom’s birthday is the first day of spring and every year I send her flowers, not cut flowers, but seeds and bulbs for her garden. This year I sent nasturtiums. I love their bright sunny color and peppery flavor (yes, you can eat them!). Bring this gorgeous hue to your hair with formula below. –– Laura Martin

Application: Apply the root formula below to the 1/2” of hair closest to the scalp, working in quadrants for neatness. Follow immediately with ends formula, saturating the remaining hair thoroughly. Process 30 minutes, reapply as necessary to keep strands wet looking.

 

Formulas: (On Natural level 6)

Roots: Goldwell Topchic 1 part 7KV + 1 part 7OO with 20 Volume

Ends: Goldwell Topchic 1 part 7KV + 2 parts 7OO with 30 Volume

 

 

Special thanks to Laura Martin for this post. Laura is a professional hair stylist, former senior educator at ARROJO cosmetology school, and a creative non-fiction MFA student at Georgia College, Milledgeville, GA

 

Color Inspiration and Formulation: Turtle Dove Blonde

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dove hair

The dove is a delicately hued bird, its feathers are a blend of slate gray and taupe. This extra-cool blonde as a similar feeling. It’s a seamless blend of a two blondes, a khaki tone and a silvery shade that blend to form a lovely plumage. Get the formulas in the style notes. –Kelly Rowe

Application: Apply formula 1 first, saturating roots to ends for a cool, even base. Paint formula 2 onto the top surface of large, triangular sections. Process 25 minutes shampoo and condition. Apply formula 3 and process 5 minutes. Rinse and style.

Formulas: (on natural level 8)

1: Goldwell Colorance 8BA with 2% Lotion

2: Goldwell Oxycur Platin with 30 Volume

3: Goldwell Colorance Express Toning 2 parts 10 Silver + 1 part 10 Creme

 

Special thanks to Laura Martin for this post. Laura is a professional hair stylist, former senior educator at ARROJO cosmetology school, and a creative non-fiction MFA student at Georgia College, Milledgeville, GA


Rockstar Color Inspiration and Formulation: Melon Blonde Featuring Jenn Wasner

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Singer Jenn Wasner is most famous as half of rock duo Wye Oak, but she also has a solo act: Flock of Dimes. I saw her perform last week at the 40 Watt Club in Athens, GA. Jenn was great on stage. She has a fantastic voice, an intoxicating presence, and beautiful hair. Her color is a pale, barely peach blonde that reminds me of cantaloupe. Of course, I rushed home to figure out the formula; get it after the break. –– Laura Martin

Application: You can achieve this color in one step by blending permanent color with blonding cream. The cream boosts the color’s lifting power and provides more transparency for a sheer, pastel result. Use a traditional virgin application for the best result on previously uncolored hair. Starting 1/2” from roots, saturate to ends, separating each section at the root with a thin strip of cotton to prevent bleeding. When application is complete, pull color through roots and process for 30 minutes. Shampoo and condition.

 

Formula: (on natural level 7)

Goldwell Topchic 1 part Blonding Cream + 1 part 9KG + 1 part 10BG with 40 Volume

 

 

Special thanks to Laura Martin for this post. Laura is a professional hair stylist, former senior educator at ARROJO cosmetology school, and a creative non-fiction MFA student at Georgia College, Milledgeville, GA. Follow her inspirations on twitter @LarMarStyle

Rockstar Hair Color Inspiration & Formulation: Tori Amos Red

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I’ve loved Tori Amos ever since I first heard her song “Winter” during my sophomore year in high school. She’s an amazing pianist and song writer with a sense of style to match. She’s know for quirky outfits, cat eye glasses and bright red hair. Over the years the specific shade has changed, but I love this variation best: rich auburn with a copper gleam. Get the professional formula and tips on application in the style notes. –– Laura Martin

Application: With earthy reds, hot roots are less of a problem than with vibrant shades, just use two different developers with the same formulation for an even result from roots to ends. Apply root formula first to the 1/2” closest to the scalp then follow with ends formula. Process complete application for 30 minutes, then shampoo and condition.

 

Formula: (on natural level 6)

Roots: Goldwell Topchic 3 parts 6KR + 1 part 6K + 1 part 8OR with 20 Volume

Ends: Goldwell Topchic 3 parts 6KR + 1 part 6K + 1 part 8OR with 30 Volume

 

 

Special thanks to Laura Martin for this post. Laura is a professional hair stylist, former senior educator at ARROJO cosmetology school, and a creative non-fiction MFA student at Georgia College, Milledgeville, GA. Follow her inspirations on twitter @LarMarStyle

Hair Color Inspiration & Formulation: Powder Pink

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pink

Of all the pastel hues, pink seems to be the most popular. It’s easy to see why –– it looks great on a variety of skin tones, can hold its own or blend into a variety of blondes, and is both feminine and luxe. We’ve seen the hue in a variety of shades, but this extra-pale powdery shade is one of our favorites. Learn to create it in the style notes. –Laura Martin 

Application: Use Goldwell Oxycur Platin to lighten hair to an even level 10. Shampoo and condition then towel dry thoroughly. Apply the formula below starting 1/2” from the scalp and working until about 1” from ends. Process until desired color is achieved then pull through rots and ends and process another 1-5 minutes or until even result is achieved.

 

Formula: (on pre-lightened level 10)

Goldwell Colorance 30 parts 10BS + 2 part 7RR with 2% Lotion

 

Special thanks to Laura Martin for this post. Laura is a professional hair stylist, former senior educator at ARROJO cosmetology school, and a creative non-fiction MFA student at Georgia College, Milledgeville, GA. Follow her inspirations on twitter.

Hair Color Inspiration & Formulation: Neon Blonde

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neonblonde

Pastel hair keeps getting lighter and more ethereal. The trendiest shades this season are barely-there washes that are more blonde than bright. This pale chartreuse is a perfect example. The bold neon shade applied to the underside of the hair gives it a glow-in-the-dark illumination that is both soft and intense. Click the style notes for application tips and the professional formulation. –– Laura Martin

Application: Use Goldwell Silk Lift to lighten hair to even level 10. If working on virgin hair or regrowth longer than 1/2” use a virgin application method to ensure an even result. Wash, and dry. Separate out a 3” wide section along the bottom hairline. Apply formula 1 to this section. Cover with saran wrap and apply formula 2 to remaining hair. Process according to manufacturers instructions.

 

Formula: (on pre-lightened level 10)

1: Goldwell Elumen 20 parts GB@9 + 10 parts NB@10 + 2parts YY@all + 1 art Gn@all

2:Goldwell Elumen 2 parts NB@10 + 1 part GB@9

Special thanks to Laura Martin for this post. Laura is a professional hair stylist, former senior educator at ARROJO cosmetology school, and a creative non-fiction MFA student at Georgia College, Milledgeville, GA. Follow her inspirations on twitter.

Hair Color Inspiration & Formulation: Sticky Toffee Blonde

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elle fanning

The Fanning sisters both tend to keep their strands on the paler side of blonde, opting for light golden shades that play up their angelic features. When Elle stepped out in the warm toffee colored shade I was amazed at how the color transformed her. The rich, shiny dark blonde makes her look more mature. By providing a stronger contrast with her skin tone the color enhances her bone structure and stormy blue eyes. Steal her refined take on blonde; get the formula after the break. –– Laura Martin

Application: Get the shimmering, dimensional effect shown her by layering two dark blondes in slightly different tones. Paint formula 1 onto roots, then alternate formulas 1 and 2 through remaining hair in thin, diagonal slices separated with saran wrap. Process, then rinse each slice individually before shampooing.

 

Formula: (on starting level 7)

1: Goldwell Topchic 2 parts 7NP + 1 part 8GB with 20 Volume

2: Goldwell Topchic 2 parts 8B + 1part 7G with 20 Volume

 

 

Special thanks to Laura Martin for this post. Laura is a professional hair stylist, former senior educator at ARROJO cosmetology school, and a creative non-fiction MFA student at Georgia College, Milledgeville, GA. Follow her inspirations on twitter @LarMarStyle

Hair Color Inspiration and Formulation: Berries and Cream Blonde

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berriesandcream

Pink and blonde go together as perfectly as sweet-tart berries and a splash of cream. Swirled together like a fruity dessert, this pretty color combo elevates pink to a new, more sophisticated level. Learn to create this whipped delight; click the style notes for the formulas and tips on application. –– Laura Martin

Application: Lighten hair to an even level 10 with Goldwell Silk Lift. Shampoo, condition and rough dry. Divide hair into four quadrants. Take a horizontal section from the bottom of the back right quad. Apply formulas 1 and 2 in alternating diagonal bands, blending with a dry brush. Continue through remaining section and press for 20 minutes.

 

Formulas: (on pre-lightened level 10)

1. Goldwell Topchic 1 part 10V + 1 part 20 Volume + 1 part Water

2. Goldwell Topchic 2 parts 10P + 1part 7PK + 3 parts 20 Volume + 3 parts water

 

 

Special thanks to Laura Martin for this post. Laura is a professional hair stylist, former senior educator at ARROJO cosmetology school, and a creative non-fiction MFA student at Georgia College, Milledgeville, GA. Follow her inspirations on twitter.

Inspiring Colors: Marbled Hues

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marble

The word “marble” comes from the Greek verb Marmairo which means, to flash, sparkle or gleam. Marble is highly valued for its rich layers of color and reflective, lustrous surface. You can give your hair the same luxuriant quality by pulling delicate veins of contrasting hues through a neutral base shade, creating a rich, twinkling effect. Learn to create marbled hair color in the style notes. –– Laura Martin

Step: Select a palette of 3-4 hues in a mix of blonde, brown, and vibrant tones from the same color family (caramel, peachy, ashy, etc.)

Step: Select a base shade (this should be your darkest color) and apply to root area, working out 1-2” from scalp, saturating thoroughly.

Step: Apply the remaining shades in thin, overlapping slices, allowing them to intermingle. Use the more natural shades liberally and the vibrant shades sparsely.

Step: Pair technique with a textured cut that moves and shifts to reveal the layers of color.

 

Special thanks to Laura Martin for this post. Laura is a professional hair stylist, former senior educator at ARROJO cosmetology school, and a creative non-fiction MFA student at Georgia College, Milledgeville, GA. Follow her inspirations on twitter.


Hair Color Inspiration and Formulation: Rose Gold, Pale and Bright

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rosegold

Rose gold walks the line between trendy pastel pink and natural strawberry blonde. Whether you prefer a barely-there shimmer or a richer glaze of the trending hue we’ve got you covered. Try these shades on their own, blend them together, or use them as an accents paired with blonde and natural red shades. Click the style notes for the formula and tips on application. –– Laura Martin

Application: Lighten hair to an even level 10 with Goldwell Silk Lift. Shampoo, condition, and towel-dry. Apply one of the formulas below and process 5-15 minutes, until desired color is achieved.

 

Formulas: (on pre-lightened level 10)

Pale Rose Gold: Goldwell Colorance 1 part 10V + 2 parts 10BB with 2% Lotion

Bright Rose Gold: Goldwell Colorance 2 parts 9KG + 1 part 10BB + 1 part 7PK with 2% Lotion

 

Special thanks to Laura Martin for this post. Laura is a professional hair stylist, former senior educator at ARROJO cosmetology school, and a creative non-fiction MFA student at Georgia College, Milledgeville, GA. Follow her inspirations on twitter.

 

Hair Color Inspiration and Formulation: Roasted Peach

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roasted peach

The pastel trend is easy to adopt if you have blonde strands, but for dark haired women it can be harder to pull off. Natural brunettes look washed out with pale hair, and lightening dramatically takes a big toll. This shade has a pastel feel, but doesn’t require a platinum base. It looks great with dark roots and has a complex, toasted finished. Click the style notes for the formula and tips on application. –– Laura Martin

Step: Apply the color formula noted below all over, or hand paint, using full saturation onto large sections to leave some depth at the root. If hair has been previously colored, lighten to a level 8 before applying the formula below.

 

Formula (on natural level 6)

Goldwell Topchic 1 part 8NA + 1 part 9G + 1 part 7KV + 1 part Blonding Cream with 30 Volume Developer

 

 

Special thanks to Laura Martin for this post. Laura is a professional hair stylist, former senior educator at ARROJO cosmetology school, and a creative non-fiction MFA student at Georgia College, Milledgeville, GA. Follow her inspirations on twitter.

Hair Color Inspiration and Formulation: Straw and Gold Ombre Effects

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golden ombre

Neutral, natural roots that fade slowly into warm sunny hues is this season’s ultra-soft take on ombre. Although this color has a golden tint, it’s actually a blend of beige and sunny blonde. The cool undertones make this palette surprisingly versatile and flattering for a variety of skin tones. Get the formula and tips on application in the style notes. –– Laura Martin

Application: Paint the formula below onto hair in this sections, feathering 2/3 of the way up the strand, leaving the root area natural. Keep sections separated with foil or saran for neatness.

 

Formula: (on natural level 7)

Goldwell Topchic 2 parts 9GB + 1 part 9NA + 1 part Blonding Cream with 30 Volume

 

 

Special thanks to Laura Martin for this post. Laura is a professional hair stylist, former senior educator at ARROJO cosmetology school, and a creative non-fiction MFA student at Georgia College, Milledgeville, GA. Follow her inspirations on twitter.

Hair Color Inspiration & Formulation: Understated Auburn

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soft auburn

When it comes to red shades it’s the bright ones that get all the attention. But a subdued red is just as beautiful. A soft auburn like the one shown here is a delicate mix of copper, coral, gold, and ruby hues that creates a complex shimmering hue. It’s flattering on a variety of skin tones and the variety of undertones allows the color to shift, taking on the character of the surrounding shades, so it’ll never clash with your ensemble. Click the style notes for this must have formula. –– Laura Martin

Application: Because this formula relies on a careful balance of different tones it should not be used to lift more than one level or deposit more than two. Apply root formula first to the 1/2” closest to the scalp. Saturate remaining hair with ends formula.

 

Formula: (on natural level 6)

Roots: Goldwell Topchic 1 part 6KS + 1 part 9KG + 1 part 6RB with 20 Volume

Ends: Goldwell Topchic 1 part 6KS + 1 part 9KG + 1 part 6R with 30 Volume

 

 

Special thanks to Laura Martin for this post. Laura is a professional hair stylist, former senior educator at ARROJO cosmetology school, and a creative non-fiction MFA student at Georgia College, Milledgeville, GA. Follow her inspirations on twitter @LarMarStyle

Hair Color Inspiration & Formulation: Leaves and Twigs

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Earthy brown and leaf green are a natural pairing. The chocolatey base shade has a dark red undertone that’s the perfect contrast to jade or teal accents. Get the formulas for this earthy yet edgy color paring in the style notes.

Application: Lighten small areas of the hair for the green color, lifting no more than 10% of total hair. Isolate these area with foil or saran and apply Twig formula the remaining hair, processing 25 minutes. Shampoo and towel dry hair. Apply Leaf formula and process according to manufacturers instructions.

 

Formula (on natural level 6)

Leaf: Goldwell Elumen 2 parts GB@9 + 1 part GN@all

Twig: Goldwell Colorance 2 parts 5K + 1 part 5BM with 2% Lotion

 

Special thanks to Laura Martin for this post. Laura is a professional hair stylist, former senior educator at ARROJO cosmetology school, and a creative non-fiction MFA student at Georgia College, Milledgeville, GA. Follow her inspirations on twitter.

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