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Hair Color Inspiration & Formulation: Electric Fire

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Natural roots combined with bold strokes of red and yellow give hair a vivid, neon glow. The bright hues seem to give off their own light, flashing out from the neutral base tone. Application of this palette should enhance the shape and movement of the cut. In the image on the left gradients of color are placed to enhance natural shine and shadow lines. In the image on the right the colors are placed on the underside of the hair creating an interior illumination. Read on for the professional formulas and tips on application. –– Laura Martin

Application: Lighten sections where bold shades will be applied using a hand painting technique for soft transitions. Lift to a level 9 or 10 with Goldwell Oxycur Platin, shampoo and condition. Dry hair and apply formulas 1 and 2 as desired, isolating from other hair with foil or saran wrap. To create shadows, use formula 3 sparingly on small areas. Process according to manufacturer instructions.

Special thanks to Laura Martin for this post. Laura is a professional hair stylist, former senior educator at ARROJO cosmetology school, and a creative non-fiction MFA student at Georgia College, Milledgeville, GA


Hair Color Inspiration & Formulation: Toasted Marshmallow Blonde

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Pale blonde, dusty with toasted warmth and flecked with richly caramelized streaks creates a bold yet harmonious blend of tones. The fine veins of chocolatey richness give pale blonde shades a touch of seasonal depth, while the graham-colored mid-tones blend and soften the transition between light and dark. Get the formulas for this yummy, fluffy blonde palette in the style notes. –– Laura Martin

Application: Apply formula 1-3 as a full head highlight, using foils. Use a high density of formula 1 with formula two and three accounting for about 1/3 of the foils. Process until formula 1 has lifted hair to level 10. Remove foils, shampoo and tone with formula 4 for 5 minutes. Condition and style.

Formulas (on natural level 7)

1: Goldwell Silk Lift with 20 Volume

2: Goldwell Topchic 1 part 8BA + 1 part 8B with 20 Volume

3: Goldwell Colorance  Lowlights 6-7 Warm with Lowlight Lotion

4: Goldwell Colorance Express Toning 2 parts 10 Champagne + 1 part 10 Creme with Toning Lotion

Special thanks to Laura Martin for this post. Laura is a professional hair stylist, former senior educator at ARROJO cosmetology school, and a creative non-fiction MFA student at Georgia College, Milledgeville, GA

 

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Hair Color Inspiration and Formulation: Pewter Blonde

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Cool and metallic, this pewter shade is a softer, less stark version of silver with earthy undertones that  mediate the ashy hue. This shade works well at a variety of levels; try blending light and dark version of the tone for a modern, monochrome effect. Click the style notes for professional formulas and application recommendations.  –Laura Martin 

Application: Begin by lightening hair in sections to one level above target shade, shampoo and condition and towel dry. Apply the formulas below roots to ends to pre-lifted hair and process 5-25 minutes, watching for the correct level of deposit.

Formulas:

Pewter White: (on level 10) Goldwell Colorance 1 part 9A + 1 part 10B with 2% Lotion

True Pewter: (on level 9) Goldwell Colorance 1 part 8B + 1 part 8SB with 2% Lotion

Pewter Clay: (on level 8) Goldwell Colorance 7MB with 2% Lotion

Special thanks to Laura Martin for this post. Laura is a professional hair stylist, former senior educator at ARROJO cosmetology school, and a creative non-fiction MFA student at Georgia College, Milledgeville, GA

 

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Color Inspiration and Formulation: Wintergreen

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Cool weather and minty freshness go together beautifully. A sweet pastel green is just the thing to get you in the mood for cold weather, and provides a delicate counterpoint to the dark muted tones of the season. The looks show here feature the hue as a base, but it’s lovely as an accent tone too and pairs beautifully with shades ranging from icy white to deep chocolate. Click the style notes for the professional formulation and tips on achieving a perfect result. –Laura Martin

Application: When toning hair with green it may be tempting to cheat on the lifting stage. After all, yellow and blue make green, so it may seem like a having some residual contributing pigment wouldn’t matter. But it does. Use a powerful lightener like Goldwell Oxycur Platin to lift strands to a level 9 or 10, removing as much pigment as possible before applying the toner below. The ash base will help counteract any residual warmth.

Formula: (on pre-lightened level 10)

Goldwell Elumen 20 parts Clear 20 parts AB@9 1 part Tq@all

 

Special thanks to Laura Martin for this post. Laura is a professional hair stylist, former senior educator at ARROJO cosmetology school, and a creative non-fiction MFA student at Georgia College, Milledgeville, GA

Hair Color Inspiration and Formulation: Cafe Du Monde

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In New Orleans chicory is blended with coffee to make a sweet, flavorful morning drink that’s rich and fruity. The hints of cool red in this deep brown shade have a similar effect, enhancing the shine and richness of coffee-colored brown. The effect is achieved by pairing to slightly different shades. Blend them in blocks, panels, or melted sections; there’s no wrong way to combine them. Click the style notes for the formulas and tips on application. –– Laura Martin

Application: The two shades below work well together whether applied to large sections or small. Apply as desired and process for 30 minutes. Rinse colors separately to preserve distinction. Then shampoo and condition with color save.

Formulas (on natural level 6)

Light Chicory: Goldwell Topchic 1 part 5RS + 1part 6VR with 20 Volume

Coffee and Chicory: Goldwell Topchic 1 part 4B + 1 part 5BP with 10 Volume

Special thanks to Laura Martin for this post. Laura is a professional hair stylist, former senior educator at ARROJO cosmetology school, and a creative non-fiction MFA student at Georgia College, Milledgeville, GA

Color Inspiration and Formulation: Winter Sunshine

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Bright, sunny golden-peach strands are the perfect cure for winter doldrums. Adding warmth to pale shades gives them a shiny, healthful glow and provides a stunning contrast to pale skin. Try the coral0blonde base shade on its own, or add even more vibrancy by dusting ends with a wash of copper or goldenrod. Click the style notes for pro formulas and tips on application. –– Laura Martin

Application: The warm tones in this color can easily turn brassy if natural contributing pigments are added in. To prevent this, lift hair with High Lift blonde for control, then apply the toner to refine the shade. If an accent is desired, section off accent areas while toning. Dry hair and apply accent 1 or 2 to remaining hair, processing according to manufacturers instructions.

Formulas (on natural level 6)

Lightening: Goldwell Topchic High Lift 12 BG with 30 Volume

Toning: Goldwell Colorance 1 part 9KG + 1 part 9GB with 2% Lotion

Accent 1: Golwell Elumen 40 parts Clear + 1 part YY@all

Accent 2: Goldwell Elumen 40 parts Clear + 1 part KK@all

Special thanks to Laura Martin for this post. Laura is a professional hair stylist, former senior educator at ARROJO cosmetology school, and a creative non-fiction MFA student at Georgia College, Milledgeville, GA

Hair Color Inspiration and Formulation: Beet Red

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Whether or not you enjoy the earthy-sweet flavor of beets, their deep, jewel-like tone is something to be admired. The root comes in a range of vibrant red tones that are both natural looking and intense. The key to achieving this difficult balance is mixing a variety of red shades, for a faceted effect. Get the formula and tips on application in the style notes. –– Laura Martin

Application: The formula below will give the best result when applied to virgin, level 6 hair. Lifting or depositing can throw off the balance of tones, contributing extra pigments to the carefully assembled mix of tones. If using on a different level, pre-lighten and/or fill to achieve an even base before adding the target shade.

Formula: (on natural level 6)

Goldwell Topchic 3 parts 6RR + 1 part 7KR + 1 part 6RB + 1 part 6VV with 20 Volume

Special thanks to Laura Martin for this post. Laura is a professional hair stylist, former senior educator at ARROJO cosmetology school, and a creative non-fiction MFA student at Georgia College, Milledgeville, GA

Hair Color Trends: Blended Reds

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Every fall I become obsessed with red hair. Maybe it’s the vibrant foliage. Maybe it’s the bright sunsets. Whatever it is, cool weather makes me crave crimson strands, and this year it seems I’m not alone. Popular reds for the season range from cool berry tones to earthy coppers, often on one head. Blended reds are prismatic and flattering, balancing warmth and coolness. These looks add dimension to cuts, and pair well with a variety of clothing ensembles and makeup palettes, where single-tone reds are sometimes limiting. Click the style notes to learn more about this trend. –– Laura Martin

Step: Choose reds with same vibrancy and value for easy mixing and matching. The looks pictured top-left and bottom-right mix drastically different tones at the same level and intensity. Try copper and violet or scarlet and wine.

Step: If you want to use reds at a variety of levels stick to a single tone. The look pictured bottom-left has a mixture of light, dark, and mid-tones, but all have the same rosy brick hue. The result is both dramatic and seamless.

Step: For a softer take on the trend, try a natural red with thin pieces of brighter hues woven through the underside. Try a copper-brown or cherry-cola base and select vibrant shades like magenta and tangerine for the accents.

Special thanks to Laura Martin for this post. Laura is a professional hair stylist, former senior educator at ARROJO cosmetology school, and a creative non-fiction MFA student at Georgia College, Milledgeville, GA


Hair Color Inspiration and Formulation: Black Pearl

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Muted versions of bright hues are an intriguing choice for cold weather fashions. The hair colors shown here feature a tarnished overlay of dark pearlescence which lends an air of mystery. Choose from cool rosy brown, deep crimson or blackened sea green. These rich shades are sure to impress. Click the style notes for the professional formulations. –Laura Martin

Application: Apply the formulas below over neutral shades levels 6-8 for the best result. The tarnished surface will appear about 1 level darker than the stated level of formulation (for example, a six will look like a five).

Formulas: (on natural level 6-8)

Darkened Rose-Brown: Goldwell Colorance 1 part 7PK + 1 part 6RB + 1 part 6BP with 2% Lotion

Darkened Crimson: Goldwell Topchic 1 part 5RS + 1 part 6KR + 1 part 6BP with 10 Volume

Darkened Sea-foam: Goldwell Elumen 20 parts AB@6 + 10 parts AB@9 + 2 part Tq@all + 2parts NA@2

Special thanks to Laura Martin for this post. Laura is a professional hair stylist, former senior educator at ARROJO cosmetology school, and a creative non-fiction MFA student at Georgia College, Milledgeville, GA

Hair Color Inspiration and Formulation: Aubergine Sheen

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The shiny purple-black of an eggplant skin is one of the most gorgeous colors in nature, but it’s difficult to replicate. The darker the level of color, the more difficult it is to see tone, so producing shades that are both dark and vibrant is tricky. The best way to amp up the hue without losing depth is to add accent pieces of a lighter version of the same color. This can be done in in either a thin veil or through hidden blocks that peak through a darker top surface. Get the formulas for this dark but vibrant purple, and tips on application, in the style notes. –– Laura Martin

Application: For a veiled effect, section out a strip of hair, 1” wide on either side of the part, working from the front hairline back to the crown. In the crown area, widen the section to incorporate the whirl. Clip this section away. Apply formula 1 to all remaining hair, cover with foil and apply formula 2 to the remaining section.

For a peak through effect, section off hair as described above. Immediately below this section, apply formula 2 in foils, using 2-4 back to back slices with space in between. Apply this panels of color through one small area or all around the section. When foils are complete, apply formula 1 to all remaining hair.

Formulas: (on natural level 6)

1: Goldwell Colorance 3VV with 2% Lotion

2: Goldwell Topchic 6VV with 20 Volume

Special thanks to Laura Martin, senior educator at ARROJO cosmetology school, for sharing professional hairstyling advice with Style Noted

Hair Color Inspiration and Formulation: Cinnamon Berry

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Red hair is gorgeous, but it’s a big statement. And for some personalities (and skin tones) it’s just to much…until now. This rich blend of burgundy and copper creates a customized shade that includes both bright berry hues and rich spice notes for vibrancy that’s complex and understated. This shade will make you look gorgeous without stealing the show. Get the professional formulation and tips on application in the style notes. –– Laura Martin

Application: Shampoo hair and towel dry. Divide hair into four even quadrants by splitting ear to ear and forehead to nape. Starting in the back, right quad, take 1/2 diagonal sections and apply formula roots to ends. Repeat through three remaining quadrants, working top to bottom. Process for 30 minutes, then condition.

Formulas: (on neutral levels 6-8)

Goldwell Colorance 1 part 7PK + 1 part 7KV + 1 part 5RB with 2% Lotion

Special thanks to Laura Martin for this post. Laura is a professional hair stylist, former senior educator at ARROJO cosmetology school, and a creative non-fiction MFA student at Georgia College, Milledgeville, GA

Hair Color Inspiration and Formulation: Spiced Oatmeal

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Winter can be a hard season for blondes. Blonde just isn’t usually very cozy, and while it looks great with tanned skin and beachy waves, in the winter it can seem washed-out or bland. This richly spiced bronde shade is the perfect solution. The complex color has a neutral base dusted with hints or warm spice for a gorgeous hue that’s cozy but light, like a fluffy bowl of porridge. Get the formula and tips on applying it in the style notes. –– Laura Martin

Application: The two formulas provided below will give two slightly different shades of blonde, level 9 golden oatmeal and level 8 cool spice. Apply the darker blonde to roots and the lighter shade to ends or mix together in a full head of highlight or melded panels. They will blend and blur while providing a dimensional, complex blonde.

Formulas: (on natural level 7)

Golden Oatmeal: Goldwell Topchic 1 part1 part 9NA + 1 part 9GN with 30 Volume

Cool Spice: Goldwell Topchic 1 part 8BA + 1 part 8B + 1 part PMix with 20 Volume

Special thanks to Laura Martin for this post. Laura is a professional hair stylist, former senior educator at ARROJO cosmetology school, and a creative non-fiction MFA student at Georgia College, Milledgeville, GA 

Emerging Color Trend: Silver Lining

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From what I’ve seen so far, 2015 is forecasted to be a turning point for fashion. There’s a decided shift toward understated hues, natural lines, and intricate details. This understated approach is changing the way we see beauty. Bare skin combined with bright shadow, luxurious fabrics cut into loose bohemian shapes, and bold hair colors worn in understated placements. The looks shown here, which feature bright silvery hues lining the underside of a neutral brown, are luxurious and understated, fashionable and wearable. Click the style notes to learn more about this up and coming look. –– Laura Martin

Step: Ask your stylist to lighten a single panel or the entire underside of your hair with a damage-free lightener like Goldwell Silk Lift. Use 2-3 back to back slices to ensure visibility, and lighten to a level 9 or 10, as bright as possible.

Step: Tone the lightened sections with a cool glaze. Goldwell Colorance Express Toning in 9 or 10 Silver for a cool icy platinum. For a richer metallic use Goldwell Colorance 8SB.

Step: Tone the rest of the hair to rebalance pigment and add depth. Fashion browns like 6RB or 5BP will compliment the silvery hue while still looking natural.

Special thanks to Laura Martin for this post. Laura is a professional hair stylist, former senior educator at ARROJO cosmetology school, and a creative non-fiction MFA student at Georgia College, Milledgeville, GA

Hair Color Inspiration And Formulation: Poppin’ Red Sombre

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Eve Galmiche colorist at ARROJO NYC showed us a recent color that she had done that is really stunning. A bold red sombre that was a transformation from the blonde the client had in the summer. If any hair inspiration photo can move you to make a big change, this is definitely it. Click the notes for more.

“I suggested a rose or blush tone with a bit of a punch. Since she wanted the color to last a long time I chose Goldwell Elumen. I customized a peachy rosey tone, knowing it would pick up really bright and saturated on her blonde more porous ends. That’s why the color has such a nice gradation from a softer tone to a really bright tone on the ends.” –Eve Galmiche

 

Formula and Application

STEP 1: Using Goldwell Silklift with 20 volume developer, balayage throughout with full saturation on the ends.

STEP 2: Blend through her preexisting highlights to bring lightness around the face with diagonal back sectioning.

STEP 3: Process for 30 minutes until the hair lifted to a red/orange state at a level 7.

STEP 4: Glaze with Goldwell Elumen 7KB with a drop of RR@all and drop of PK@all.

 

Special Thanks to Eve Galmiche for sharing her work with Style Noted.

 

Follow Eve on Instagram: @thehaircolorexpert for more hair inspiration!

 

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Hair Color Inspiration and Formulation: Sweet Paprika

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Paprika gives food an earthy sweet flavor that feels warm and bright. It’s great sprinkled over just about any savory dish; its mild flavor enhances and adds complexity without taking over. Soft copper provides a similar effect on most skin tones, adding a rosy glow that’s flattering but not attention grabbing. Add this hue to blonde and light brown shades for a lovely season update. Click the style notes for the formula and tips on application. –– Laura Martin

Application: For red hues, getting even intensity from roots to ends can be challenging. To ensure an even result, begin by pre-pigmenting the ends, especially if they are faded or damaged. Next, apply a slightly muted formula to roots, then a brighter version through the rest of the hair, including the pre-pigmented areas.

Formula: (on natural levels 6-8)

Pre-pigment: Goldwell Topchic 8K mixed 1:3 with water

Roots: Goldwell Topchic 1 part 8OR + 1 part 9KG + 1 part 8G with 20 Volume

Lengths: Goldwell Topchic 1 part 8OR + 1 part 9KG With 30 Volume

Special thanks to Laura Martin for this post. Laura is a professional hair stylist, former senior educator at ARROJO cosmetology school, and a creative non-fiction MFA student at Georgia College, Milledgeville, GA


Hair Color Inspiration & Formulation: Gingerbread

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Cold weather food is all about spices: cloves, cinnamon, anise, nutmeg. This lovely shade has a fusion of deep, spicy notes which add complexity to this copper brown that’s made from combining a variety of warm and cool hues into one sweet, ginger-bread-inspired shade. Click the style notes for the formula and tips on application. –– Laura Martin

Application: To add richness for the cold weather months, without washing out your skin tone, choose a color that’s warmer but slighter darker than your natural. The formula below is perfect for a natural level 7, and because it’s darker you can apply the formula scalp to ends without worrying about hot roots.

Formula: (on natural level 7)

Goldwell Topchic 1 part 7G + 1 part 6K + 1 part 6KG + 1 part 6B with 10 Volume

Special thanks to Laura Martin for this post. Laura is a professional hair stylist, former senior educator at ARROJO cosmetology school, and a creative non-fiction MFA student at Georgia College, Milledgeville, GA

New Year, New Hair Color, New Attitude: Color Inspiration and Formulation for Sumptuous Velvet Red

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If you are searching for a new and trendy color for 2015, the plush surface of velvet gives depth to bright hues, creating a shadowed surface with bright facets. This rich color reproduces this effect by combining dark plum and mahogany tones with a touch of vivid ruby. Get the formula for this luxurious hue in the style notes. –– Laura Martin

Application: Thorough saturation is essential for this sort of complex tone. Apply color root to ends working in 1/4” sections throughout the head. When application is complete, re-check to assure that strands look damp and glossy. Re-apply to any dry spots and process for a full 30 minutes to ensure full deposit.

Formula: (on natural level 6)

Goldwell Topchic 1 part 5BP + 2 parts 6R + 1 part 6RV with 20 Volume

Special thanks to Laura Martin for this post. Laura is a professional hair stylist, former senior educator at ARROJO cosmetology school, and a creative non-fiction MFA student at Georgia College, Milledgeville, GA

Color Trends: Fashion Beige

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Dark blonde and light brown shades tinged with pastel hues provide a wide range of unique, but understated colors perfect for giving your strands a 2015 update. Chose peachy tuscan, warm buff, or pink-tinged raw silk. Pick a shade in a hue complementary to your skin tone for a flattering contrast. Learn more about this color trend in the style notes. –Laura Martin 

Step: Enhance the undertones in a beige shade by adding a fashion tone—like red, gold, or violet— in a 1:3 or 1:4 ratio to a neutral base. The accent color will add interest without overpowering.

 

Step: If your skin is olive or golden, try a cool beige with an ash or violet undertone. For warm skin, try a pink or peach tone. If you have neutral skin any shade will work.

 

Step: Care for your fashion beige at home with color save shampoo and conditioner. 

Special thanks to Laura Martin for this post. Laura is a professional hair stylist, former senior educator at ARROJO cosmetology school, and a creative non-fiction MFA student at Georgia College, Milledgeville, GA

Color Inspiration and Formulation: Luscious Fig

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2015 is projected to be a year of subtlety: soft colors, bespoke details, and deconstructed shapes. This fruit inspired shade is right on trend –– unique and fashionable but understated. Warm brown is perfectly accented by cool mauve undertones. Read on for the formula and tips on application. –– Laura Martin

Application: Apply the formula here using a virgin application technique, starting an inch away from the scalp and saturating to ends, then applying to the root area. This technique will prevent hot roots without the need for a high volume developer which could compromise the delicate balance of hues.

Formula: (on natural level 6)

Goldwell Topchic 1 part 6B + 1 part 7PK + 1 part 9KG with 20 Volume

Special thanks to Laura Martin for this post. Laura is a professional hair stylist, former senior educator at ARROJO cosmetology school, and a creative non-fiction MFA student at Georgia College, Milledgeville, GA

Color Inspiration and Formulation: Gold Ribbons

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Highlights are in for 2015, bringing back bold contrast to strands. Placement underneath the top layer of hair prevents stripes at the root, adding brightness to the interior of the hair. Classic foil highlights add shine and dimension, for a thicker, healthier look. Minimal placement and thin sections keep the look fresh, while soft gold maximizes gloss. Click the style notes for recommended formulas and tips on foil placement. –– Laura Martin

Application: Apply no more then 20 foils total, focusing around the lower layers near the face. Use thin slices to create distinct, but delicate, ribbons of lightness. Place foils at least an inch away from the part to avoid stripey roots. Highlift blondes will lighten and tone in one easy step.

Formulas (on natural level 6)

1: Goldwell Topchic Highlift 1 part 11V + 1 part 11 GB with 40 Volume

2: Goldwell Topchic Highlift 12BG with 40 Volume

Special thanks to Laura Martin for this post. Laura is a professional hair stylist, former senior educator at ARROJO cosmetology school, and a creative non-fiction MFA student at Georgia College, Milledgeville, GA

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